Santos
The first wristwatch for men
In 1904 Louis Cartier built a watch for aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont that could be read in the cockpit without taking one's hands off the controls. The square case with its visible screws has remained instantly recognisable ever since.
The evolution of the Santos
Santos-Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier that a pocket watch was impractical in flight. Cartier's answer was a flat, square watch with a leather strap — made in 1904, produced in series from 1911.
The eight visible screws on the bezel are not decoration but a structural element. Decades later they became the inspiration for an entire generation of sports watches.
In 1978 the Santos de Cartier appeared in steel and gold with an integrated screw bracelet — a response to the success of integrated sports watches of that era, and a commercial breakthrough for Cartier.
In 2018 the line was fundamentally revised. The QuickSwitch system allows tool-free strap changes, while SmartLink enables bracelet-length adjustment without tools.
- Case
- Square with rounded corners, 35–40 mm
- Bezel
- Eight visible screws
- Dial
- Roman numerals, chemin-de-fer minute track
- Crown
- Octagonal with blue spinel cabochon
- System
- QuickSwitch strap change, SmartLink
- Movement
- Calibre 1847 MC
Key reference numbers at a glance
What to look for when buying
- 01
The Santos is one of the few genuine everyday watches in Cartier's line-up and, thanks to QuickSwitch, remarkably versatile.
- 02
On vintage Galbée models, the condition of the gold plating on the screws and bracelet centre links is the critical point.
- 03
Check the crown: the blue cabochon is frequently damaged or replaced on older models.
- 04
The manual-wind Santos-Dumont appeals to collectors seeking the historic original form and is accessibly priced.
Cartier Santos at Predeluxe
Questions about Cartier Santos?
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